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THE 4CS OF DIAMONDS
THE 4Cs OF DIAMONDS
CHAPTER 4
The cut of a diamond is often confused with its shape while, if fact, it refers to how perfectly it’s proportions align to produce ideal symmetry. If the rough stone was cut in order to maximize these proportions it will create better fire and scintillation, or simply put… sparkle!
When trying to understand and study the cut of a diamond it is important to learn about each of its different parts. We like to think of a fine cut like a powerful engine in a car. The engines strength is the sum of its parts working in unison to push it forward. Better and more well aligned parts produce more fire, scintillation and thus, a more brilliant and valuable diamond.
DIAMOND CUT
The cut of a diamond relates to how well its facets are shaped and aligned in relation to one another. A diamond with poor cut may exhibit light leakage which will compromise its ability to properly reflect and refract light.
Let’s study the map of the diamond below outlining its important parts and how they relate to each other.
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EXCELLENT CUT
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VERY GOOD
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GOOD
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POOR
CROWN
Area between the tab. and girdle.
TABLE
Resting at the top of a diamond, the table is the largest, most visible facet.The measurement of a diamond from the center of the table through its culet
CROWN ANGLE
This angle is the final stop before light is reflected back toward your eye. If this key transition is too sharp then the light will be cast downward and the diamond will appear lifeless when viewed from above. If it is too large light will escape the crown greatly affecting a diamond, fire and brilliance.
PAVILION ANGLEMuch like the crown angle the pavilion angle is essential to the collection and subsequent refraction of light. Too shallow and light not reflect toward the crown leading to a dull appearance. If the angle is too deep precious light will escape prematurely at the expense of brilliance.
DEPTH The measurement of a diamond from the center of the table through its culet
PAVILION The area below the girdle containing angled facets which come to a point at the culet.
CULETThe bottom point at which all pavilion facets meet. Modern, well-cut round brilliants have sharp pointed culets, however some pre-modern cuts possess a flat culet.
GIRDLEThe small area separating the crown of the diamond from the pavilion of the diamond. On a round brilliant diamond the girdle is scalloped with hills and valleys. A thicker girdle contributes to overall depth percentage. This greater depth may add weight and therefore cost without improving the face-up appearance of a diamond. Traditionally the girdle has a frosted appearance but some cutters will micro facet them to give a finished look.
TABLE PERCENTAGE
TABLE PERCENTAGE
The ratio of the diamond’s largest and most prominent facet located on the top of the diamond relative to its overall width. The total diameter is equal to 100% while the size of the table is measured in relation to it. The table and depth percentages are the most important measurements when determining the overall cut grade and light performance of a diamond.
DEPTH PERCERTAGE
The ratio of a diamond’s depth and its overall diameter. It is measured by taking the distance between the top of the diamond known as it’s table, and the very bottom point of the diamond known as it’s culet. This is always described as a percentage of its overall diameter which equates to a fraction of the total diameter. The table and depth percentages are the most important measurements when determining the overall cut grade and light performance of a diamond.
Polish
Polish refers to how smooth each of a diamond’s facets are. During the process of faceting a rough diamond to a finished diamond minor, microscopic imperfections can appear on the surface of the facets. The quality of diamond’s polish is determined by a grader under 10x magnification based on the quality of its surface finish.
